Mijana – Authentic Lebanese Fare– www.mijanaonline.com

Culinary review by Candy Lesher

One of the most memorable quotes regarding the origins of the various Middle Eastern cuisines came from a Levantine friend who loved to assert, “It was the Lebanese who taught the rest of the rest of the Middle East how to cook.” Feeling a bit testy after one of her culinary lectures, I (oh-so tactfully) reminded her that many of Lebanon’s treasured ingredients came from around the world; coffee originated in Ethiopia, yogurt via Russia, tomatoes from the Americas, and their beloved phyllo dough from Turkey, while spices and sesame seeds migrated in from India. She promptly affirmed my facts, then without missing a beat confidently continued “and thankfully the Lebanese were there to teach each of them how to properly use those ingredients.” Having eaten the authentic, exquisite dishes she’d prepared for us in her home, I was in no position to argue further.

Sadly, I had only memories of her well-prepared fare, so was skeptical but hopeful when invited to join a friend at the recently opened Mijana, on Scottsdale Road just north of Curry. Curious, I looked up the name and found that Mijana are the poetic lyrics that often begin Lebanese folk songs; they’re used to set the tone for the song, whether inspiring love, devotion, ethics or ideals.

Mijana was a far more expansive space, and far less ethnic in appearance than I had anticipated. You could throw quite a party here, no matter what your theme. The Sunday night we were there, two separate Lebanese families were doing just that. Note – anytime you check out an ethnic-inspired restaurant and the majority of patrons are from that culture, the meal holds promise.

Nibbling on a variety of the small plates, both hot and cold, called Mezza, I felt the tingling excitement of discovery; after so many lackluster eateries promising the real thing, had I finally found the attributes I’d experienced all those years ago? Mijana’s Hummus ($5) was clearly not made from canned garbanzo beans, possessing the almost white color, delicate flavor and velvet-like consistency that only comes from cooking the beans from scratch (about a 16-hour process when done properly); canned garbanzos are yellow-tinged, often tasting tinny and somewhat sour. The Babaghanouj ($5) had a sensuous smoky profile and silky texture, with no hint of bitterness. Dolmades ($6) were house-made and scrumptious, using chickpeas as a stuffing element; no ubiquitous canned versions here. Things were definitely looking up.

To my delight, Mijana’s Tabbouleh ($6) was the ideal proportion of parsley to bulgur wheat, about 80% parsley to 15% bulgur accented by a smattering of mint, tomato, scallion plus a well-balanced dressing of lemon juice and olive oil. Still, my favorite cold mezza was Labne; this luxurious spread of strained, thickened yogurt deftly seasoned with just a whisper of garlic and drizzled with heady olive oil was divine. Of course, it didn’t hurt to spread it on house-made pita bread baked in Mijana’s stone pita oven, the consummate accompaniment for every dish served throughout the evening. Save up your carb allowance, this pita is worth it.

There’s a nice assortment of hot Mezza too. Anyone who loves flaky phyllo dough encasing a savory filling will enjoy Sambusek ($6) sporting well-seasoned minced beef and pine nuts, Borek ($6) with feta, melting mozzarella and herbs, or Fatayer ($6) with spinach, onions, pine nuts and often-used herb, sumac. Sumac is a citrusy, salty seasoning used throughout much of the Middle East derived from drying and grinding sumac berries; it’s used during cooking to season but is also offered table-side as a condiment, replacing salt (a fabulous find for anyone reducing their sodium intake). The Mayanek ($7) of Lebanese sausages sautéed in olive oil and blessed with lemon juice was heavenly, as was Kibbe ($7). Kibbe is practically a national dish in Lebanon; this mix of bulgur, beef, pine nuts, onions and seasonings is shaped like a tiny football and fried, though there was no oily or greasy aspect whatsoever. Other don’t miss items include the Calamari ($8) of tender rings magically enriched by a feta-enhanced aioli sauce, the spicy Garlic Shrimp ($10) or traditional Falafel ($6), which again, were flavorful and not at all greasy or heavy like too many others I’ve encountered.

It’s not hard to see, our eyes were definitely bigger than our stomachs. Still, we applied ourselves further and nibbled on Mijana’s exemplary salads. I highly recommend Fattouch ($8) of crunchy romaine, onion, cucumber, radish and tomato or their nod to Greece (Greek Salad $8) that includes feta cheese and kalamata olives. The standout though is a Lentil Beet version ($8) that begins with romaine topped with a mix of brown lentils, cucumbers, parsley, caramelized onion and tomato, crowned with marinated beets and feta cheese.

Fortunately, we were able to give ourselves a much-needed rest before diving into entrées, by watching the evening’s entertainment offered Friday, Saturday and Sunday evenings. This night, their witty emcee introduced us to a troupe of talented belly dancers performing lovely traditional dances. For those who have yet to enjoy such entertainment, do go with single dollar bills in your wallet. It’s traditional, gracious and much appreciated by the dancers to (tastefully) show your appreciation for their art by tucking them into their outfit. For husbands or boyfriends who are shy, or know they’ll receive dagger looks from significant others, simply hand it to your partner and let her do it. It works for me!

On to “Mashawi,” meaning “off the grill.” I was elated. Marinated and grilled Beef or Chicken Shawarma ($12) were textbook examples of the savory, tender morsels they should be. Kebabs, which included Chicken ($12), Beef tenderloin ($16), Lamb ($14), jumbo Shrimp ($17), Salmon ($17), Kofta of seasoned ground beef and lamb ($12) and Vegetables ($11) were superb and portions generous. Each of Mjana’s platters feature appropriately sides; lamb paired with grilled tomatoes and onions, Chicken with rice, salad and dreamy garlic dip (think Lebanese aioli), salmon with saffron rice and grilled veggies, and Kofta with rice, salad and tsatziki (mix of strained yogurt, diced cucumber, garlic and olive oil).

With all these wonderful items, I was surprised to see they still offered some pretty heavy-hitting house specialties, including Paella ($16). On yet another encounter, I experienced the Lebanese version of this oft-thought Spanish dish; it was scrumptious. Though I’ve yet to sample them – I’ve got Mijana’s Samke Harra of grilled then baked fish ($19), and spoon-tender Lamb Shank ($16) in my culinary sights for next visit.

With writing yet to do at home, Lebanese Coffee seemed a smart choice at the end of such a Herculean meal. That rousing blend of finely ground coffee, sugar and cardamom is the perfect accompaniment to Mijana’s house-made Baklava; this Lebanese version focuses more on pistachios and lightly sweetened syrup than the Greek version, which is much heavier with walnuts and honey. They also offer a very unique dessert of baked “cheese,” kind of a Lebanese cheesecake with honey, that was distinctive enough to earn my “startling-ly good” rating (it’s a culinary term – at least in my book).

Having later chatted with Mijana’s co-owners, Manessa Abinader and Thomas George, who owned a successful business in San Francisco, along with Mijana’s talented chef Samir, it was obvious that the goal of gracious hospitality and impeccably authentic Lebanese fare was finally attainable for Valley diners. All three are single-minded in this effort. I now understand the name too; Mijana is meant to inspire – only in this case, it inspires the joy that comes from celebrating life – and from at long last finding a really great, authentic Levantine restaurant.

Mijana
1290 N Scottsdale Road
Tempe, AZ 85281
480-829-4959